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Next I glued on a side board to each side at 90 degrees these are shown in Fig 2 d and e, and are as wide (or deep!) as the brick work and marble facing which is 6". These side pieces encase the marble work.
When facing the fire place the sides of boards d. and e. actually flare outwards so two extra blocks of wood are glued on as shown at Fig 3 (right) at letters f. and g. The broken line indicates the profile I was then able to shape the sides into. See also Illustration No. 2. Look carefully - you can actually see the contrast in grain for these two extra laminates.
I also prepared the mantle shelf that would close in the top so I again marked on a pattern and cut away the waste with a 4" shaping blade. See Illustration No. 3 which shows the shape of the mantle board which is a letter D in shape.
I now needed to create some mouldings as decoration on leading edges, with the timbers being 1 1/4" thick and it being an architectural piece of woodwork, it needed a deeply cut moulding. So I decided to use the Mini-Grinder rather than use a router and moulding bit. The same 'tube' moulding is used throughout and is here shown by sectional drawing and by photographs.
This series of small drawings show the cut progression or steps taken to make this 'tube' moulding. After the step taken at drawing Fig 6 (right) It is possible to complete the profile with Mini-Sanders only particularly if you are not practiced or confident to make light controlled cutting sweeps with the Mini-Blade.
In any event, the Mini-Sanders are vital to remove all rotary tool marks and complete fine line shaping. This means when you have say 40 or 60 grit Mini-Sanders attached they become wood shaping tools in their own right.
Fig 4 (below) shows the first vertical trench cut made full depth with the Mini-Grinder blade.
Fig 5 (below) shows two more trench cuts at angles which slice through and connect with the original cut.
Fig 6 (below) shows another slice cut through the outside corner
Fig 7 (below) shows the effect after you have rounded the corners and smoothed the surfaces.
After fine sanding (well 300 grit!) and removing all dust I applied a proprietary liming solution followed by two coats of Arboroil and when fully dry I rubbed down with fine wire wool and then burnished one coat of Arborwax to a low sheen.
This fire place surround is only one of many ways in which Arbortech shaping tools can be used in an architectural way, other ideas will be shown in the future!
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